Clothing
Women's Clothing
Mahamanasi
12th Century
Hoysala Era
Bahubali's Sisters
12th Century
Hoysala Era
Wraps
Women and men's wraps are very similar in this era. For most part, they seem to be either some permutation of pants-drapes, and simple sarongs. The simple sarong can be seen in the Chalukya pictures - like the pair of ladies or the mithuana. This sarong is probably put on just like a modern one - 2-3 yards of cloth, wrapped around the waist two times. They may be secured by either the two upper corners tied together or by a belt. The figure on the right in the Pair of Ladies seems like she might have a heavy belt on. Asim also mentions that the shape suggests more play that one might have if one tied it. I'd second that from personal sarong experience. It's admittedly hard to tell whether it is tied or sewn.
The pants drape either worn long, as with Lakshmi and Mahamanasi, or they may be short, like Parsvanatha's attendant (see below). Images like the Srutadevi (below) suggest that there is a fishtail attached sometimes to the longer length form. The Lakshmi statue, as well, may have a fishtail hanging between her legs. I would suggest using the fishtail wrap instructions to do either form of this wrap. For a no-fishtail look - start with a 5-yard piece of fabric, wrap both sides with an equal length of fabric, and omit the fishtail. This would work best with a simple piece of fabric - the pallav of a regular sari would make one leg more ornate than the other. For the very short wrap, try a shorter width of fabric.
One final wrap that doesn't match the other is the wrap worn by the Sisters of Bahubali. This, as best I can tell, is the first example of what might be the Vijayanagara Era drape. I suspect the length of cloth is narrower.
NOTE - In December 2004, I received some new information that has lead me to ponder the authenticity of the pa inting from which the "Sisters of Bubali" comes. This is the only painting of which I am aware from the Hoysala era which shows this wrap. Thus, I wonder at whether this style of wrap was seen in the Hoysala era, or whether this is also a painting from the Vijayanagara Era, or a copy made even later than that...
Bhu Lakshmi Idol
990 AD
Chola Era
Cholis
Cholis - form fitting, midriff length shirts - have caught on in the Hoysala region. They are actually unisex garments - men wear them, too. I haven't yet found a back-view - the style of art is such that paintings always show front, or side views, and the statues aren't wearing cholis. They are worn by both goddesses and humans alike.There are two commercial choli patterns - Folkwear and Fat Chance Belly Dance. The Folkwear pattern is a classic modern choli - french hooks up the front, and a solid back. It also has many odd, curving shapes and darts - which means it's likely to be a modern construction. The Fat Chance Belly Dance Pattern is back tied, and is made for American Tribal Style belly dance. As such, there's no historic research behind it, but it does feature more rectangular shapes. Neither of these patterns is particularly optimal. I've had or heard of troubles understanding and fitting both of them.
There are also three SCA patterns out there - Lisa's choli, Rashid's choli and Dinah's choli. All three are based on various Mughal era pictures. Lisa's choli and Rashid's choli can be found in the SCA_India files section - which requires login as a member of the SCA_India group. None of these are from this era - they are all from the Mughal era, where it's easier to see the possible construction of a choli. Given the cartoonlike nature of the art of this period, it's nearly impossible to guess cholis differ from period or modern patterns.
In Hoysala art, cholis are exceedingly optional - figures in the same image will be both topless and choli wearing. Cholis seem non-existent in the few Chalukya pictures, but the Hoysala and Chalukya empires are very near by one another...
NOTE - In December 2004, I received some new information that has lead me to ponder the authenticity of the paintings presented here. These are the only paintings of which I am aware from the Hoysala era which show cholis. As such, the doubts about the authenticity of these paintings raises the question of whether cholis are appropriate to this era.
The God Parsvanatha's Attendant
12th Century
Hoysala Era
The Goddess Srutadevi's Attendant
12th Century
Hoysala Era
The Goddess Srutadevi
12th Century
Hoysala Era
The Goddess Srutadevi's Attendant
from another picture
12th Century
Hoysala Era
Gravity Defying Stanapatta
Bhu Lakshmi Idol
990 AD, Chola Era
Stanapatta
A stanapatta is a thin band that wraps horizontally around torso, going across each nipple. They are seen occasionally on Chola era statues. I haven't seen them yet in Hoysala or Chalukya statues. I've seen two styles of stanapatta - the gravity defying style that is a single band across the breasts and the shoulder strap style that has a band going over each shoulder. Near as I can tell, the second more "practical" style shows up around 1200. I'm not sure why it took over two centuries to figure out there was a gravity problem.
Shoulder Strap Stanapatta
Rukmini Idol
13th century AD, Chola Era
Men's Clothing
Brahma Idol
11th Century
Chola Era
Wraps
Men's wraps are very similar to women's wraps. Men also wear sarongs - as in the Ring Picture. It appears to be 2-3 yards of fabric, wrapped tightly around the waist, and perhaps tied on with a belt. I think they are the same length as the female version (about 45"), but the ends are tucked up to the waist.
They also wear a pants drape either long, as with Brahma and Vishnu, or they may be short, like Dharanendra's drape. They may or may not have a fishtail hanging down the front of their garment - it's very hard to tell. I would suggest using the fishtail wrap instructions to do either form of this wrap. For a no-fishtail look - start with a 5-yard piece of fabric, wrap both sides with an equal length of fabric, and omit the fishtail. This would work best with a simple piece of fabric - the pallav of a regular sari would make one leg more ornate than the other. For the very short wrap, try a shorter width of fabric.
Clothing seems to be rather optional, though - Saint Sambandar (12th century Chola) seems to have no problem showing a little skin!
Vishnu Idol
990-1000 AD
Chola Era
Cholis
Choli - form fitting, midriff length shirts - have caught on in the Hoysala region - even for men. Indeed, it is the only garment that men seem to wear in this era. Unfortunately, I've only found one man wearing a choli - Dharanendra the Yaksha. A yaksha is a tree spirit, a type of celestial being.Unfortunately, there are no choli patterns for men. Since in modern day India, men don't wear them, the art of making a male version seems to have disappeared. I'd suggest investigating one of more rectangular cut women's cholis - such as Fat Chance Belly Dance or Lisa's choli - it's probably easier to adapt these to a lack of boobs than some of the others.
NOTE - In December 2004, I receieved some new information that has lead me to ponder the authenticity of the pa intings presented here. These are the only paintings of which I am aware from the Hoysala era which show cholis. As such, the doubts about the authenticity of these paintings raises t he question of whether cholis are appropriate to this era.
The Yakshi Dharanendra
12th Century
Hoysala Era